MOST TOLERABLE EXAMPLE OF THE COMMUNAL-TABLE TREND.
In the regional seasonal utopia that is Portland, Oregon, the community table is exactly that: a way of gathering people for the purpose of sharing an experience. But it isn’t all peace, love, and understanding. From her open kitchen at Beast, chef Naomi Pomeroy keeps a hard line: two seatings for a six-course daily menu “based on what sounds great, right, and true”–in other words, whatever she wants to serve that night. Don’t even think about asking for substitutions.