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Lovely Lovely Hula Hands

September 22, 2007 by Dave Leave a Comment

Missing a Timbers match is not something I take lightly.

A team of wild horses won’t be able to drag me away from the Timbers match Sunday at PGE Park.

So naturally I joined over a hundred of my fellow fans at Slabtown last night to watch the Timbers draw 1-1 in the first leg of the aggregate-goal semifinal series with Atlanta.

However, I missed both goals.

And I only had time for two delicious beers.

Because I left just before halftime.

I walked the three miles home.

I would not make such sacrifices for just any restaurant.

But last night I had a date with some friends at Lovely Hula Hands (4057 North Mississippi Avenue).

Higgins is my favorite restaurant in Portland. I’m always impressed with the food and service and beer selection. It’s been a biweekly stop for over a decade, and for three years I even lived within the block in an apartment I selected partly due to its proximity to the restaurant.

But now I’ve moved to North Mississippi, and once again my decision to relocate was partially influenced by proximity to a restaurant; Lovely Hula Hands is a half block from my front door.

On perhaps one of the last summer-like days of the year we sat at a table in the beautiful airy upstairs space.

Our friendly, pretty, and beauty-marked waitress started us off with a few signature cocktails. I awkwardly ordered a Beauty Mark (sour cherries, Makers Mark, fresh orange juice). My companions had a Talulah’s Bathwater (pomegranate molasses, Sauza, fresh lime, sugar) and a Nik’s ol’ Fashion (Makers Mark, sour black cherries, one sugar cube, dash of bitters, topped off with soda water).

After my three mile walk I was thirsty; I downed my drink and ordered a Dick’s Best Bitter (one of my favorite non-Oregon beers) to go with the meal.

Another friend who’d visited recently had recommended the sea salty Padrón peppers fried in olive oil and the Viridian Farm peaches with Parma prosciutto, browned butter and thyme. We followed his suggestions, but also tried the ahi tuna carpaccio with avocado, lime, cilantro, shaved fennel and jalapeño oil. All three choices were delicious and uncomplicated. My favorite was the super-simply prepared peppers; not spicy at all, okra-like sans slime. The browned butter made the peaches; I forgot the prosciutto and thyme were even there. The ahi was beautiful.

For the main course I ordered the pan roasted northern halibut with pounded basil oil, aioli and a shellbean, peperonata and Romano bean ragout. The halibut was perfectly cooked and lightly browned on top. The ragout was as simple and summery as it sounds.

My companions had the spaghetti with basil pesto, heirloom tomatoes and Parmesan and the Draper Farm chicken breast stuffed under the skin with wild mushroom sausage and served on mashed sweet potatoes. They both were pleased.

For dessert I tried the almond cornmeal cake with huckleberries and whipped cream. Again, simple and perfect. Of course I shared.

A relatively current menu is periodically updated on the website. The menu seems always to include a vegan, a pasta, a fish, and several meat options, plus the ubiquitous burger (I eagerly await the Portland Hamburgers review).

I’ve only been to Lovely Hula Hands a few times, but they have a perfect record so far. The location can’t be beat and the big old building is quirkily comfortable. The food is fantastic and the service is great. If they keep this up for a decade or so they may join Higgins on the throne.

Restaurant Review: Trébol

July 7, 2007 by Dave 2 Comments

Trebol LogoActually, I was going to write more before I checked out Rick’s beerdrinker.org; he posted a review yesterday and his experience is very close to mine.

Trébol is located up on 4835 N. Albina, just a few blocks from the heart of the Mississippi area.

Like Rick, we enjoyed our cocktails (I recommend La Loca and the Sangria Trébol made with red wine).

We ordered several appetizers; pico de gallo with a few homemade corn chips, calamari with a delicious banana/plantain polenta-like cake of some sort, and the guacamole. All were excellent, but the portions were meager.

I enjoyed the caldo, which was full of calamari, clams, fingerling potatoes and peppers. But at $17.50, it seemed a bit steep.

The asparagus enchiladas looked fantastic; that’s what I should have ordered 🙁

I’ll go back; I’d like to try some of the more traditional fare. But I’m not sure if they’ll last long. Not that they asked me, but my prescription for Trébol success? Lower prices 25-30%, or increase the portions by 50%.

Restaurant Review: Fenouil

July 7, 2007 by Dave 2 Comments

Fenouil LogoI visited Fenouil in the Pearl recently.

The big, modern and airy space was bustling and First-Thursday crowded. We sat outside on the patio looking onto Jamison Square.

We shared several appetizers:

The lobster beignets are as delicious as they sound; little fried lobster chunks with an anise-flavored aioli for dipping.

I tried my very first foie gras. It was served in a terrine with brioche and fig jam. It tasted like vanilla butter. Poor duck or goose 🙁

The steak tartare, with kobe beef and a quail egg on top, was mildy flavored and pleasant. My only point of comparison is a venison tartare I had in Montreal a couple years ago, which had a texture reminiscent of raw ahi and a stronger, more capery flavor.

For the main course I had the paella, which was fantastic. Prawns, halibut, chicken, clams, mussels, and chorizo! Try it.

We shared several bottles of a good Pinot Noir from Alloro Vineyard in the Willamette Valley. 2005 I think?

In lieu of dessert I ordered a flight of Calvados, which we passed around the table. My favorite was the Boulard, but the table’s consensus favorite was one that was 20 years old. Alas, I don’t remember the name . . .

The food is excellent, but in general not on par with Higgins (my Portland gold standard) and a bit more expensive. The service was great. I would definitely go back with a party again (especially if someone else is picking up the tab!); I’d like to try the frog legs and escargot; two classic dishes I have yet to try.

The bistrot menu (pdf) is Higgins-esque, and they have a happy hour, so I intend to check it out. There was no crowd at all in the bistrot around 6pm.

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