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Restaurant Review: Fenouil

July 7, 2007 by Dave 2 Comments

Fenouil LogoI visited Fenouil in the Pearl recently.

The big, modern and airy space was bustling and First-Thursday crowded. We sat outside on the patio looking onto Jamison Square.

We shared several appetizers:

The lobster beignets are as delicious as they sound; little fried lobster chunks with an anise-flavored aioli for dipping.

I tried my very first foie gras. It was served in a terrine with brioche and fig jam. It tasted like vanilla butter. Poor duck or goose 🙁

The steak tartare, with kobe beef and a quail egg on top, was mildy flavored and pleasant. My only point of comparison is a venison tartare I had in Montreal a couple years ago, which had a texture reminiscent of raw ahi and a stronger, more capery flavor.

For the main course I had the paella, which was fantastic. Prawns, halibut, chicken, clams, mussels, and chorizo! Try it.

We shared several bottles of a good Pinot Noir from Alloro Vineyard in the Willamette Valley. 2005 I think?

In lieu of dessert I ordered a flight of Calvados, which we passed around the table. My favorite was the Boulard, but the table’s consensus favorite was one that was 20 years old. Alas, I don’t remember the name . . .

The food is excellent, but in general not on par with Higgins (my Portland gold standard) and a bit more expensive. The service was great. I would definitely go back with a party again (especially if someone else is picking up the tab!); I’d like to try the frog legs and escargot; two classic dishes I have yet to try.

The bistrot menu (pdf) is Higgins-esque, and they have a happy hour, so I intend to check it out. There was no crowd at all in the bistrot around 6pm.

Filed Under: French, Not Cheap, Restaurants

Comments

  1. nborders says

    July 7, 2007 at 8:02 am

    …Well we ate the other part of the duck and it was excellent. Cooked perfectly with no gamey flavor. It came with a flan-like side that was flavored with corn. A good combination. The portion was small so be warned.

    The Kobe Beef Sirloin was dang good. It came with a sweet sauce and potatoes.

    A funny thing, I ordered a side of mushrooms with my steak. They were cooked perfectly, not watery but not rubbery. After a few bites, I kept saying, I have tasted this before… a few bites more and I had it. The mushrooms tasted just like Stove Top Stuffing. LOL! A few in the party agreed.

    Highlight of the night was the foie gras, for sure.

    ~n

  2. llevesque says

    July 27, 2007 at 4:50 pm

    I also went to Fenouil a couple of times and I was not impress nor disappointed. Next time you go ask for the foie gras with a glass of sauterne. It will make the experience even more enjoyable.

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