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Dave Goes: Silver Falls State Park

March 15, 2010 by Dave Knows Leave a Comment

We hit the road Sunday morning. Our destination was Silver Falls State Park, Oregon’s largest at 9000 acres, and home to an awful lot of water falling off cliffs.

Upper North Falls

From the park brochure [careful: huge PDF]:

The falls tumble over thick basalt lava flows resting on softer, older rock.

The softer layers beneath the basalt eroded over time and created natural pathways behind some of the falls. Look up and see if you can spot the many tree “chimneys,” or casts while you walk behind North Falls. These formed when lava engulfed living trees, causing the wood to disintegrate.

Heather had never visited this park, and I hadn’t since I was a kid. We’d already reserved a camping spot at the park later this summer, so we thought it’d be a good idea to see our campsite in person, and to get out of town for the day.

We took I-5 down to Woodburn, then Highway 214 to the park. Our first stop was the North Falls parking lot, where we paid a $3 day use fee and stretched our legs. It was a short, one-way hike to the Upper North Falls, pictured above. We returned to the trailhead and struck out on another short hike, to find one of the big falls.

Trees

Parts of Silver Falls State Park were constructed by Civilian Conservation Corps workers in the 1930s. My guess is that the (clearly non-ADA compliant) staircase below was their handiwork.

North Falls Staircase

The staircase was part of a switchback on the trail to the North Falls. Falling 136 feet, the North Falls are friggin impressive. So impressive that I forgot to take a photo of them . . . from the front. Yup, the trail goes behind the falls.

Under the North Falls

To give you an idea of how big the cave is under the falls, take a look at the photo below. You’ll see on the right, just below the middle what looks like a tiny bench. That bench, my friends, is a full human size bench!

Human Size Bench

As I sat on that bench, I took the photo below:

Under the North Falls

Here are a few more shots of the North Falls, from behind them.

North Falls

North Falls

[Heather took some good photos of these falls from the front. She also was armed with a better camera than my iPhone. Her post is here!]

Next stop was the South Falls area. We took a gander at where we would be camping this summer, then proceeded to the most popular (judging by the size of the parking lot; fortunately almost empty this mild winter day) part of the park. The Civilian Conservation Corps built the Historic South Falls Lodge here, and there are nice grassy fields and impressive shelters for picnics. The South Falls are a short walk too.

South Falls

There’s a trail behind these falls too, but we’re saving that exercise for our camping trip. We did make our way to the top of the falls, however. How’s your vertigo?

Top of South Falls

Visit Mile73.com for more Silver Falls State Park adventures from Heather.

Dave Goes: Astoria, Oregon

February 17, 2010 by Dave Knows 1 Comment

AstoriaAstoria‘s charm is in its history and urban form. The oldest permanent U.S. settlement west of the Rockies, next year Astoria celebrates its bicentennial. The downtown is compact and walkable, and though not exactly bustling, there are a couple book stores, several cafes, and quite a few restaurants and bars.

Heather and I have visited Astoria several times over the last couple years. Our first road trip together included a stop at the Astoria Column. Later that same year we drove out from Portland to visit the Fort George Brewery and Public House. Last fall we paid homage to the 1400 block of Duane Street, my favorite block in Astoria. And last summer we spent a weekend in Astoria to take in the Astoria Scandinavian Midsummer Festival.

Last weekend we visited again. Valentines Day is our anniversary, so to celebrate we sprung for a suite at our favorite place to stay in Astoria, the Commodore Hotel. The room prices are surprisingly reasonable, and the hotel is right downtown, putting all the restaurants, cafes, bars, museums, and shops at our doorstep.

View from our room at The Commodore

On Saturday morning after coffee at the Blue Scorcher, we went for a walk. We discovered, just up the hill from the cafe, a replica of Fort Astoria.

Fort Astoria

Friday night we’d enjoyed several stouts at Fort George Brewery. February is Stout Month. Badda Bing, a Flanders-style cherry stout was my favorite. The Murky Pearl, a true oyster stout (i.e. brewed with oysters!) was curious, but not fishy. And a bourbon barrel Cavatica stout was impressive. The next day, after checking out the fort replica around back, we toured the brewery and sampled an IPA and a Porter straight out of the zwickel as part of the state-wide Zwickelmania.

Tour of Fort George Brewery

After the brewery visit we stopped by the Shallon Winery (recommended to us by Sláinte Mhaith in a blog comment last year!). I insist you add a visit to the winery, and the man who runs it, Paul van der Veldt, to your next trip to Astoria. Make sure you have about a half hour for the brief winery tour (the winery is very small) and the tasting (which is unlike any wine tasting you’ve ever experienced). Read more about our visit to Shallon Winery at Mile73.com: Astoria: The Most Wicked Place On Earth

Sunday the sun finally broke out. I hadn’t been to Fort Clatsop since a field trip in grade school, so we paid a visit. Apparently now the fort is part of something called the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park.

Heather at Fort Clatsop

After defending the fort for a while, we followed the Netul River Trail to a purported old canoe landing.

Netul Landing

The weekend was complete.

And visit Mile73.com for more photos and stories of our weekend adventure!

High Speed Rail Coming to the Northwest

January 29, 2010 by Dave Knows 3 Comments

High Speed Rail Map, Eugene to Vancouver, BCI’m pretty excited about what the Federal High-Speed Intercity Passenger Rail Program contains for Portland and the Northwest. Here are some highlights for the Eugene – Portland – Seattle – Vancouver, B.C. corridor (pdf):

The 467-mile long corridor connecting Eugene, Portland, Seattle and Vancouver, Canada is the backbone of intercity passenger rail in the Pacific Northwest. The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act (ARRA) grants will further enhance service on a corridor where Washington and Oregon have already made substantial investments. The long-term vision for the corridor is to have a dedicated high-speed track, where trains will operate at up to 150mph, with 13 daily round trips between Seattle and Portland. The region is taking a cost-effective, step-by-step approach towards achieving this vision, by focusing investments on projects that have immediate benefits, but which also lay the groundwork for the future.

. . .

Seattle – Portland: Two additional daily round trips will be added between Seattle and Portland, for a total six; travel time will be reduced by at least 5 percent; and on-time performance will increase substantially, from 62 to 88 percent. Major construction projects include building bypass tracks to allow for increased train frequency and multiple upgrades to existing track and signal systems. Several safety-related projects will also be funded, including grade separations, positive train control, and seismic retrofits to Seattle’s historic King Street Station

Portland – Eugene: Investments include upgrading Portland’s Union Station, and engineering and environmental work for track and signaling projects that will increase service reliability and reduce congestion.

In a few years the Portland, Seattle, Vancouver Timbers fan train trips will be legendary!

Planologie Considers Portland

January 29, 2010 by Dave Knows 6 Comments

Planologie LogoThe author of Planologie, a blog dedicated to considering the ways we live, build, move, and think, recently spent a few days in Portland, after also visiting Vancouver and Seattle.

It is a rare experience in the United States to travel between cities in a region as well as neighborhoods within cities without requiring an automobile. I recently spent ten days in the Pacific Northwest sans car, flying in and out of Seattle, riding trains between Seattle and Vancouver, Vancouver and Portland, and Portland and Seattle, and utilizing a combination of light rail, streetcars, buses, and my own two feet to explore the cities themselves.

In Seattle, Vancouver, and Portland by Rail, Bus, Streetcar, and Foot: Part One, he recounts his impression of Seattle. Part Two looks at Vancouver.

Part Three, published today, is about Portland.

Though a native, fan of, and defender of Portland, I tend to agree with some of his critical observations and generalizations. Yes, the Portland Streetcar is both a the most visible manifestation of urban planning in a city renowned for its prescient planning practices and at the same time the city’s urban core is so small I can cross it on foot with ease, and at an only slightly slower pace. (Though I dare say the streetcar can be quicker and more pleasant than traipsing from NW Portland to PSU or the South Waterfront in the rain.)

And I can’t much refute this:

The Pearl was still attractive, but it felt lifeless, even shabby in parts, and populated solely by yuppies where any activity could be found. I saw few families. Few adults. None of the ethnic or cultural diversity one expects in a city. None of the urban vitality. Portland’s urban core is tiny, and though it looks the way one expects—even wants—a city to look, the majority of the people who seem to have committed to it are homeless, addicted to drugs, or newly arrived from out of town.

Though he dismisses all of Northeast and Southeast Portland, near Alberta, Division, or Hawthorne as suburban and composed of single family homes, and not part of the urban fabric, which makes me curious as to whether he visited any of them. For his next visit I would recommend spending some time in Westmoreland and Sellwood, Woodstock, Hollywood, Montavilla, Roseway, Goose Hollow, Boise, Beaumont-Wilshire, St. Johns, etc. My point being that Portland is a city of neighborhoods. Downtown, the Pearl, and NW are where the tourists generally wander, and most tourists are happy with that. But if a tourist is interested in the real urban fabric of Portland, he has to expand his horizons.

And I don’t see the McMenamin’s Kennedy School as anything like Main Street, USA at Disney World though. Or at least, knowing that the larger body of the McMenamins’ work, which mixes historic preservation with artifice and a dash of authenticity, is so unlike the artifice of Disney which just features . . . artifice, I can’t equate the two.

I do, however, agree with this:

Portland, like its famed streetcar, is an interesting case. It boasts many of the pieces found in successful cities and some that no other American cities can match. The streetcar. Light rail. Cycle tracks. Skateboard tracks. An aerial tram. Traffic calming. No major downtown arterials. Local music. Local art. Local beer. Great food. Environmental awareness. A history of proactive and progressive decision making. Historic urban fabric. Food carts. Park blocks. It’s walkable. It’s bikable. The DIY spirit is pervasive. There is much to like in Portland, and the hype is not all smoke and mirrors.

My largest point of contention with the article is the conclusion. Portland is a small city, so comparing its central city with that of big-city Seattle is not interesting outside of that both cities are in the NW corner of the country. The economic woes of Portland the article outlines have been with us for decades now, and the hipsters only for the last decade or so. The economic woes will in all likelihood continue, but the hipsters will eventually migrate to the next hip city. The loss of the hipsters won’t effect Portland’s urban planning and general ability to build consensus around development and other social issue, which began decades before this current crop of hipsters discovered our fair city.

Dave Goes: The best block in Astoria

November 9, 2009 by Dave Knows 2 Comments

The 1400 block of Duane Street (my favorite block in Astoria) houses both Blue Scorcher Bakery Cafe and the Fort George BreweryMan (and woman) can’t live on storm watching alone.

Saturday morning Heather and I drove up 101 to Astoria. My favorite block in my favorite town on the coast is the 1400 block of Duane Street, which houses both the Blue Scorcher Bakery Cafe and the Fort George Brewery.

I ordered the Americano on my first visit to the Blue Scorcher months ago, out of fear their normal coffee wouldn’t be up to snuff (I’m eternally disappointed with the coffee at coffee shops). And that dry Americano was one of the best Americanos I have ever experienced. It was rich and aromatic and tasted like coffee should taste. Was it a fluke? The Americano I experienced this past Saturday was not quite as good as the first one, but it was still damn good (though to be fair I did not order it dry this time). I’m still afraid to order the coffee though . . .

We wandered around town for a bit after finishing the paper and our coffees, and then settled in at the Fort George Brewery (right next door to the Blue Scorcher) for lunch.

Fort George brews fantastic beers and serves respectable pub fair, but one menu item is particularly notable: the house made sausages. Less greasy and salty than you’d expect (they taste almost healthy), and especially delicious. The flavors of fennel and oregano; roasted garlic, basil, and white wine; and mushrooms (the sausage du jour was flavored with bolete mushrooms) really come through (and stick with you all day!).

FortGeorgeSausage

Due to previous experience, we knew the shared sausage sampler appetizer was enough for both of us.

Heather enjoyed a Cavatica Stout, while I savored both the fall flavored Drunkin’ Pumpkin, and a fantastic Belgian Trippel.

FortGeorgeBeer

All in all a very pleasant few hours at my favorite block in Astoria on a stormy Oregon coast Saturday.

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